Play-Time

Playing is another very important dog need. Play-time is a time for bonding, discipline, stimulation and fun for both your dog and yourself. As much as its important to play with your dog, your dog must also learn to play alone at times. Teaching your dog how to play on its own is crucial to avoid destructive behaviors, stress from boredom and to keep your dog busy when its alone.

TOYS
Dog toys fall into four categories: Toys that squeak, toys that bounce, toys for chewing (includes chews and rawhide) and smart toys.
Toys that bounce should only be taken out when you are playing with your dog. In other words keep all balls away from your dog unless you are about to play fetch with it. Once you are done playing make sure you put the ball away for your next fetch play session.
Smart toys are a genre of toys developed to challenge your dog as it tries to figure out how to get treats out of them, the most famous are Kong toys, but there are a wide variety of toys available to challenge your dog.

In general make sure your dog has one squeaky toys, one chew toy and one smart toy always available. Do not leave more than these three toys out at a time, or else your dog will get bored and will find other things to chew on like your shoes or socks.

So your dog never gets bored of its toys make sure you are constantly changing the toys every one to two days. So if today your dog is playing with their squeaky newspaper tomorrow you can replace that with a their squeaky duck, or if today your dog is chewing on its Nyla-rope tomorrow you can give it a rawhide bone.

Smart toys are great to keep your dog busy when you are leaving it alone. Most smart toys can be stuffed with different treats such as dry food, cream cheese or peanut butter (The health-food grade type). You can even keep your dog's smart toys in the freezer to add to the challenge. Make sure when you first introduce your dog to a new smart toy. Keep it simple so it is not discouraged and loses interest in the toy.

Remember that you should always ask your dog to perform a command before giving it any of its toys.

Playtime with You
1) I cannot begin to even count how many people play extremely inappropriately with their dogs teaching them bad habits and chronically stressing their dog out. Never play the following games with your dog: Chasing each other, chasing the dog when it fetches, tug-of-war, rough-play and wrestling, teasing and taunting using a toy (please refer to this post on more information why these games are unacceptable)

2) Teach your dog to find things using its nose: The most exciting game you can play with your dog is teaching it to find things. You can start off with hiding treats around the house or yard and having your dog find them. When your dog's sense of smell develops you can hide different toys and ask your dog to find it.

3) Fetch is an extremely fun game to play with your dog, but it should never be the main game you play. Fetch like any repetitive activity will cause a stress build up in your dog. Dogs that chase cats and have a high predatory drive should not be playing fetch, it is preferable that you play find it with these dogs so that they can learn some self-restraint. You can play fetch with your dog 2-3 times a week and only 4-5 throws at a time.

4) Dog puzzles have been recently developed and are a great game for you to play with your dog. Puzzles are an activity for you and your dog and should not be left for the dog alone. Puzzles offer different levels of challenge for your dog to master as it tries to figure out how to get a treat either by picking, pulling, rotating or a combination of different moves to obtain the treats. Always start simple so your dog doesn't get discouraged and gradually increase the difficulty. Remember again to always ask your dog to perform a command before they are allowed to play.




HAPPY PLAYTIME!!!

Leash-walking: More Than Just Exercise...

At a very young age it is extremely important to teach your dog proper leash-walking, regardless of its breed or size. Proper leash-walking means that your dog walks at a leisurely pace behind you on a loose leash, in sync with your pace, leaving you to decide where to go. Proper leash-walking is your dog walking calmly behind you oblivious to the cat darting in front of it, or the friendly dog up ahead pulling and yapping to greet it. Good leash manners make walks an extremely pleasurable time for both the owner and the dog.

How often and how long one should walk their dog is entirely dependent on the dog's age, health and breed requirements, but even the smallest breeds also need to be walked on leash. Too little walking has its own suite of behavioral issues as does too much walking. So always pay attention to your dog's posture and demeanor when walking your dog, a dog who pulls frantically at the leash or is extremely reactive to sounds is just as exhausted or stressed out as dog who shuffles along with their head held down.

Walking your dog is more than just exercise, it is a special time to bond with your dog, it is the time when your dog understands that you are in control, that as long as you are with your dog it is safe and that you will protect it, not it protecting you. It is frequently the case that when people walk their dogs, the dogs are pulling ahead of their owner, these dogs are stressed out because instead of enjoying their walk, they are burdened by a sense of responsibility to protect their owner. The relationship between an owner and dog is mirrored in leash-walking.

Whether it is a puppy or an older dog that you are retraining to walk properly on leash, the same principles apply.

1) Use a harness: Collars, pinch collars or choke collars make walking extremely unpleasant for a dog. It is the time to build calmness and restraint so the walk is enjoyable to the dog. How do we expect a dog to feel calm when there is something around their neck choking it. We might see desired result of the dog not pulling, but a dog fearful of getting their air supply cut off will never associate walking with a pleasant experience and stress will constantly build-up. Harnesses allow the dog during the training period to pull, but not experience extremely negative associations with leash-walking, that could manifest as, but is not limited to, lunging and leash aggression.

2) A calm exit is the start of a calm walk: If your dog sees the harness and leash and starts jumping excitedly, then know that your dog will most probably continue the walk excitedly. I recommend especially with older dogs that are being retrained to keep the harness on during the day and not limit putting it on just during the walk. I also recommend taking out the leash frequently in front of these dogs and not putting on, in addition to putting the leash on but taking the dog for a walk around the house, then unleashing it and doing another indoor activity that is not high energy, like for instance asking it to lie down and stay and of course rewarding it.

3) Build focus both indoors and outdoors: Building focus is your way of always being able to get your dog's attention regardless of the distraction. Whether it is a pack of stray dogs or people taunting and teasing your dog as you walk it. Building focus is a simple exercise that you should start indoors with your dog in a calm setting with no distractions. Call your dog or make a sound and when your dog makes eye contact with you reward it. Once your dog has mastered this indoors you can slowly start using it outdoors. Be extremely alert and cognizant of your surroundings and when you suspect a situation that your dog is likely to react to, call its name or make a sound before it has the opportunity to react, once it makes eye contact with you reward it and continue walking. If you feel it will be hard for your dog to ignore the distraction ask your dog to sit and stay and then reward it. Eventually if you are successful your dog will automatically look at you when faced with any distraction, make sure you either reward it with a treat or praise.

4) No pulling: No pulling is a rule that applies to both you and your dog. Never pull your dog or jerk it during a walk. Always keep a loose leash. If your dog learns to walk on a tight leash, then it starts thinking that the acceptable way to walk is on a tight leash and will always seek the tightness in the leash either by pulling or behaving in a way that will make you pull. To avoid leash pulling pay attention to your dog, if it starts walking ahead of you, stop and stand still before your dog starts to pull. If it does start to pull make sure you stand still but do not pull against your dog's pulling, also make sure you never speak to it, tell it NO or STOP, it is important to remain silent . If your dog is too excited, it is sometimes beneficial to walk in the opposite direction they are pulling in. Finally, if your dog is lingering behind and is refusing to walk because they are too interested in something else, patiently face the direction you want to walk in and not the direction of your dog, wait patiently, calling your dog or making a sound. If your dog does not respond, I recommend walking using a leash at half-length and when your dog lingers and ignores your calls to extend the leash to full length and take a few steps in the direction you want to walk in.

5) Use your body language: Dogs respond to visual cues more than auditory cues, so make sure that you are always walking facing the direction you want your dog to walk in.

6) Stay calm: Always stay calm regardless of the situation you and your dog maybe confronted with during your walk. A dog can sense your nervousness from small subtle actions like holding the leash tighter. The value of good leash-walking is not just limited to enjoyable walks and bonding, it can also seriously protect you and your dog. During one of our walks Loza and I stumbled into the territory of a pack stray nursing mother dogs, immediately these dogs surrounded us, circling us while barking and snapping at us. I reacted very calmly to this situation and called Loza and despite her fear she made eye contact with me and I rewarded her. We walked calmly through this pack of dogs that could have easily hurt both of us had either of us reacted fearfully.

Happy leash-walking!!!

Crate-Training: Creating a Safe-Space and Eliminating Unwanted Behaviors

One of the most useful and compassionate, yet often misunderstood and misused aspects of dog training is "crate training". When suggesting crate training, most people take a look at the crate and immediately become horrified, "I can't lock my dog up in a cage". While others who have attempted crate training almost always tell me, "I tried to crate train my dog, but now there is no way it will even come near the cage. Even if I leave their favorite food or toy". Crate training is neither cruel or difficult and when done correctly your dog will not fear, avoid or hate the crate, but will consider it their very own safe place.

About a month ago, my little rescue crate-trained Arty was cruelly kidnapped during one of our walks in the park. Eleven days later she was returned to me. Upon entering the house, little Arty ran straight to her crate rolling around in it, before she even came to greet me. I don't think I realized till that day the sense of security that dogs develop when properly crate-trained.

Crate-training is not only a great way for your dog to develop a sense of safety and its very own private space, it is also a great way to teach young puppies bladder control and eliminate unwanted destructive behaviors like chewing and separation anxiety.

Crate-training is a gradual process for a dog who has never had a negative experience with confinement. It is even a slower and more gradual process for a dog whose had a negative experience with confinement.

1) Make the crate comfortable: Make sure your dogs crate is comfortable, line it with a thick warm rug, place soft bedding and cover it so its nice, dark and cozy.
2) Make the crate interesting:: Put your dogs favorite toys in the crate. Include long lasting stimulating toys like a Kong or their favorite chew toys. You can even feed your dog inside the crate.
3) Never force your dog into the crate: Gradually introduce your dog to the crate, never push it in, carry it or shove it. The dog must enter the crate through its own curiosity. If you feel you need to force your dog, then STOP, reflect for a minute and take it slow.
4) Gradual, gradual, gradual.. : Crate-training is a gradual process, don't expect to bring a crate and for your dog to settle in the crate immediately, depending on the dog's age and previous experience it could take up to ten days. Start with just having your dog explore the crate, keep the door open, allow the dog to go in and out as it pleases for a few days. You can even tie its favorite chew in the crate so it doesn't take it out and can only enjoy it while inside. Pick a time when you know your dog is tired and will want to sleep to introduce them to the crate. If you are lucky your dog will fall asleep in the crate. Every day while your dog is either napping or busy enjoying their chew gradually close the door just a little bit more without eliciting a reaction from your dog. Once you are able to completely shut the door make sure you do not lock it at a time your dog will want to play or go outside. Start locking the crate at times you are sure your dog will not want to go out.
5)Use reverse-psychology: Once you see that your dog has started to love the crate, keep it closed with your dog's favorite toy or chew inside. Watch your dog as it tries to get into the crate to get its toy and then let it enter the crate.
6) Never use the crate to punish your dog: Once your dog is okay with the crate it should never be used as a punishment, it is in fact a reward for your dog. You should actually wait till your dog voluntarily enters the crate and then give it a treat by placing it on the floor of the crate.
7) Use it moderately: Once your dog is crate-training make sure that you only put the dog in the crate during their long sleep time, or for a maximum of 4-5 hours at time. Do not exceed it, it should not become constantly confined.
8) Never let your dog out of the crate if its barking or whining: If by any chance once you shut the door your dog starts whining or barking, do not let your dog out right away, wait till it stops then allow it out of the crate.
9)Do not give your dog a lot of attention when it comes out of the crate: Once you let your dog out of the crate do not give it a lot of attention this will only make the dog develop separation anxiety, a brief "hello" should suffice.
10) Keep it clean: Always keep the crate clean, if your dog accidentally poos or pees inside the crate, make sure you let your dog out right away and clean it up.

Happy crate-training and remember TAKE IT SLOW!!!